l Abbaye le Mont St Michel!

Photo courtesy Sprangers Blogspot with thanks.

The Hans Spranger's incident on 31 May would take the prize for the worst traffic accident, when he pulled over to give way on the road from Mont St Michel to Periers, and accidentally dropped off the side of the road. Hans was alright, but it was a bit scarier for his passenger Rene sitting on the RH side. Ray McKinney came to the rescue in the NZ Dodge pulling him upright once again.

Our only incident was scraping against a large concrete flowerpot as we edged out of a petrol station. Sandy Sewell said they'd had a few as well.

A TRIP TO L ABBAYE!

We were permitted to park the vehicles up close to the Abbey for a photo shoot and afterwards we had a good look around the monastery and it's surrounding village.

IT'S ALL ABOUT THE PEOPLE YOU MEET!
Pontorson, North Western Italy.

We'd gone hunting for camera batteries and film and of course, internet, and checked with the local tourist office who confirmed that there was nothing "on" in town tonight.

Then, whilst scooting up the aisles of the "carrefour" supermarket, two beaming faces popped up in front of us. Anthea and Ron saw our truck in the carpark and came in to find us. They'd been away for 4 years and just wanted to hear some good old Aussie lingo like "pikelets." They're renovating a cottage in town and called at the campsite later on to look over the trucks.

Over a delightful meal of prawns, salad, blinis and red salmon, a cheese platter, beer and wine, we formed a solid friendship based on grandchildren, ebay and our Australian heritage.

A film crew joined us this afternoon from the history Channel. Stewart and Joel are here to film the "Normandie" 65th and will stay with the convoy 2 days before moving on to the Normandy beaches.

Monday 1st June

ETREHAM CAMP - CONGRATULATIONS LANG AND BEV

THE PERFECT CONVOY!

All good things must come to an end and With our instructions on "how to convoy" refreshed by Lang? we set off for the short journey to join the British at Etreham camp.

We proved that a convoy was possible as we all pulled in around 9 am intact and without incident. Lang reckoned we'd still be coming if we'd set out as a convoy from the beginning, but there's a difference between travelling 130 kms and 35 kms an hour. The speed was cut down this morning to allow the film crew to race ahead to get a vantage spot three times, and to film from the back of the vehicle as we convoyed along behind it. Anyway, it's a fantastic effort and we're all here safe and remarkably without a traffic incident.

CONGRATULATIONS LANG AND BEV! YOU DID IT!

You've got to hand it to Lang and Bev. They take all the wingeing and whineing from a lot of us when things go wrong, fees are high or campsite bookings fall through. They somehow manage to keep composed and smiling and "soldiering on" towards Normandy.

Sunday 31st May

Ron and Anthea picked us up at 10 am and took us to visit their steam buff friend Simon Burch (who loaned us his Turkish flag to complete our set) and dropped us back in to pick up the truck.

We put the Navman on and headed straight for Peter Tombs farm arriving at 3.00 pm.

Our last night was spent camping on a 6 acre farm 15 km between Periers and Lessay. Peter and Marjorie Tombs long time friends of Lang and Bev, invited us all to stop over. It was a BBQ to remember; drinks, chips, dips, meats, salads (a whole baguette each) followed by a selection of tarts and a cake iced as an Australian Flag all home baked by Marjorie. A quilt handmade and generously donated by Jenny McKinney was presented to Marjorie as a thank you gift and memento from the "Anzac Convoy." Sam (on sax) and Dale (on guitar) supported a very talented local guitarist to bring a close to a great evening.

Peter had a wonderful collection of very complete vehicles for us to look over in his brand new purpose built shed. There were 13 trucks, 7 motorcycles, pushbikes, a penny farthing, advertising signs, 2 toy jeeps. Civilian vehicles included a 1939 Austin 8, 1930 Citroen C6 milk truck, 1930 Citroen C4. Also, Daimler Dingo, 3 Dodge Command cars, one very rare 1/2 tonner, a scripted ford jeep, pedal powered pedestal tripod generator, one 1/2 ton Dodge styleside pick up with civilian interior.

A 1917 James Model 6 motorcycle with side car, looked very awkward to ride and in Peter's own words it was "like riding an Octopus on heat!"

BLACKMAN CHEVY

As Peter was showing us around, he told us how in England our Yankee Joe or rather its GMC equivalent was endearingly refered to as a "blackman chevy." This was because the United States command kept its black GIs local in the UK fearing they would be dealt with more harshly by Hitler's forces. Whenever you saw a GMC, the driver would be black.


Friday 29th May 2009
THAT'S MORE LIKE IT!

Lang had arranged a tour of the UNIVEM PARIS ILE DE FRANCE workshops at Versailles. Serge Levy gave us 1 1/2 hours of his time to explain the vehicles that are garaged there at the moment. The Organization was started in 1984, as the MVCG and has around 160 members with approximately 160 vehicles, 50 housed privately at the moment.

Blitzes are Serge's passion (about which he is a published author) and Nigel and Lisa and their 2WD Chev Blitz troopy "Leisa Jane" formed an intstant bond! He also was very complimentary about our "Yankee Joe" referring to it as a "very beautiful Chevrolet".

I took a 45 minute video which can be made available. He thought we fought under a "red" flag in WW2, so I presented him with "The Australian Flag," once again compliments from our Federal Member of Parliament, Bernie Ripoll. Serge gave the MJCQ an inscribed English War Department fuel can.

The vehicles included Pacific Dragon Wagon, 980 Diamond T tank transporter complete with ballast box, Scammell coffee pot recovery, Sherman tank (5 Dodge engine type), GMCs, Dodges, Jeeps, Inter semi and trailer, Laffly with its extra forward and centre trench crossing dolly wheels, Ward le France wrecker, Humber gun tractor, Weasels, Matchless, Pacific tractor and low loader trailer, 969 Diamond T wrecker super complete with tools.

From the campsite in central Paris we drove to Versailles where we stopped for a photo shoot outside Louis XIV summer palace - an unexpected pleasure!

Keeping to the motorway then for the 300 km journey to Le Mont St Michel one of the most picturesque strategic island monastries in the world. Seeing it loom up on the horizon is like something out of a fairy tale.

I thought the drive today most pretty and interesting with yet another architechtural style, herds of dairy cattle and beef cattle. Whilst in a picnic spot a former Aussie couple introduced themselves as Sue and Bernard David. They said their local Motor Vehicle club would love to have spent some time with us.

I'll leave you to ponder on a large hand painted advertising sign I noticed - "DETACHMENTS VEHICLES OCCASIONS" - used car parts!


Thursday 28th May 2009
PARIS A CITY OF ARTS AND ROMANCE

Thanks to the desire of Napoleon to leave an artistic legacy, and to the German General who defied Hitler's orders to destroy Paris, we have a city centre which is an internationally recognised arts smorgasborg. The Eiffel Tower is the only high rise building in the precinct. A look at the Mona Lisa, Eiffel Tower and the windows of the Notre Dame were a few of the things we wanted to see. We were joined by Anne and Bob Ward as we cruised around town twice on the "Big Red Bus," and in doing the odd bit of souvenier shopping. Four heads are better than two when finding your way around on the Metro!


Wednesday 27th May 2009
PARIS OR BUST!

Once again Sam and Lorraine led off the group of five as we convoyed from Le Breuils to Paris taking the Champagne Valley Tourist trail.

I had my first drive for a while. Actually, since I got the RH rear stuck fast against the kerb in a seaside village in Italy. Italian, Swiss and French roads are a much better standard and have formal kerbing. Our RH rear is suffering due to the front driving axle being one wheel width narrower than the rear axle which has duals on it. It keeps getting chunks taken off it when we don't allow for it on kerbsides, narrow streets and right-hand corners!

I only drive to give Dale's balls a rest, but I know he wouldn't like me repeating that! I'd noticed the guy on his motorbike stand up every now and again and do a pelvic giration.

We received a call for help from Nigel on the UHF. He had a broken water pump flange! Yesterday it was the Jeep with a broken axle, and today the Blitz water pump. They'd sought help in a local Caterpillar Dealership, where it was welded and replaced. Dale left his spare water pump and some all size link belt in case he needed it.

The early evening trip into Paris was our scariest yet, due to the speed of the traffic. In fact French drivers have been good and couteous, they seem to recognise the convoy for what it is, and tend the give us right of way so that we can keep together. Many of them associate us with "Normandy."

Vive la France!

Lay day today at Les Breuils. The weather did a complete U turn and we were all back in jeans and overcoats. It was perfect weather for driving around looking at the WW1 memorials at Verdum.

We had a good day with little trouble finding our way. The town is well worth a visit. It has been recognised as a people with valour honours from many countries. There were 340,000 French soldiers and 320,000 German soldiers killed in the battle of Verdum 1914-1916.

Everyone is kind to us. What a break we had today!

Lang took Dale off looking for a replacement regulator. They couldn't see anything likely looking, but noticed a fellow in overalls working on his own car, and asked him. He knew where to go, but the directions were too complicated so his wife led them to a small truck repairer. They didn't have one of course, but an elderly mechanic was called from the workshop and retrieved a Peugot Bosch regulator which he said was secondhand and could be faulty, so we could have it!

It was fitted on and went like a dream! Other maintenance included topping up the engine oil by 1 1/2 L of oil, replaced the top radiator hose with a better fitting one, tightening up some cross member bolts, and shimmed up the D tent spring in the transfer box hoping it will improve the jumping out of gear problem.

THE OLD MACHINERY MAGAZINE

In a recent edition of TOMM I read an interesting article about the "Allen" sicklemower. Driving through the hilly counties of Italy, Switzerland and now France, I was wondering how they mowed their blocks, until I saw an Allen sicklemower in operation. Then I noticed them standing in fields waiting to continue mowing the next day.

You will have noticed a lack of reference to tractors, trucks and machinery in our blog. We'd seen little which excited us until we pulled up at a servo in Switzerland and noticed Toni Gisler's collection, some Swiss tractors, Fiat, Deuts. I don't want to tell you about the Porsche or the Massey Harris Pony! I didn't have any film to even take a photo. However another convoyer took photos for me.

New European trucks don't excite us, sometimes their axle arrangements are interesting - all lazy axles can be raised up and triaxle trailers can run around on one axle when empty, all on super singles. We've seen a couple of dumpys and a couple of stationarys. There's no heavy vehicles on the roads on Saturdays and Sundays, so you see them sleeping over in lay bys and servos ready to launch at midnight.

Mulhouse to Verdum, France. Hotter Than Ever!

H'mmm. It was good fun while we were able to give help, but now we are needing help it's all just a bit too much in this absolute extreme heat. All day we required a push start. We only got lost four times and enjoyed the scenic, yet, very hot ride through the French countryside from Mulhouse to Verdun.

There's plenty of barley, rye, oats and mustard being cultivated and newly planted. It's the first time we've noticed large numbers of cattle, all in very good nick.

The truck really started playing up on the journey down the Alps and across the French border into Mulhouse. There was nothing we could do, just put up with it. It wouldn't take charge. We had to wait until we got to a suitable place to buy a replacement regulator.

In the stinking heat we set off to find the National Auto Museum. Lang had David Mottram in his cab so couldn't fit us in so we had to commute in the 35 ° heat by tram. It took us 1 hour to make it. We didn't even know in which direction to start. You will remember that siesta is 1-4 pm, so the campsite office was closed. The French people we asked turned out to be "our guardian angels" and followed us after having given us directions. Step by step they (Grandpapa and two grandsons all on pushbikes) kept turning up guiding us to the tracks and station. Once again we felt like turning back, the heat getting the better of us when we found we didn't have coins for the tickets. The elder person rode "home" to get change for our 10 euro note. He also fetched us a map! Later on, we had the same help from a young man who escorted us to an internet cafe. We were the only customers, the air conditioning had collapsed!

The car museum was fantastic. We saw a "gullwing" Mercedes and Vassel Vager. "There would have to be 200 Bugattis, in your lifetime you could expect to see 1," said Dale. The entire Schulmpf collection was donated to the government in 1981. I photographed a 1923 tricar built by Alfred Angus Scott for towing canons and the 2 cylinder French Jacquot 1878 Tonneau Vapeur vehicle.

Heat Wave On The Simplon Pass! At 31° It Was Hotter Than Summer

CROSSING THE SWISS BORDER AT THE SIMPLON PASS

We knew before we left Lake Maggoire that the Simplon Pass hadn't opened for the season yet, and that we would have to take the train tunnel to the other side.

Again, the heat and the effect on the vehicles was unexpected. "No one was expecting overheating," said Dale. "I was evern worried about not having anti-freeze in the engine." Others came prepared. The sight of the snow piled up on the side of the road while the vehicles were overheating and their occupants stripping down to cool off was strange. People were sunbaking in the snow. Dale even spotted a couple of pairs of white pointers!

Before we set off, in his vague way Lang said, "You can't miss it, there's no turns. Just don't go on the autostrada or take the 42 km tunnel or you will come out at the other end." Our convoy, and the Wards, both got lost 4 times again trying to finding our way out of Lake Maggoire! Hitting the Pass later in the day magnified our overheating problems. The convoy had to split up to get a run at it.

We were expecting cold, rainy weather and most dressed appropriately. It was so hot that most of the trucks had trouble getting up the pass. Even Lang boiled (pulled over, stopped and boiled). Vapourising and overheating was an all day ordeal for most.

We couldn't get started at an earlier rest stop. Jim Sewell towed us with the fisherman's rope we "trophied" from the beach at Crete. "It seems to be charging all over the place," says Dale.

Towards the top of the Simplon Pass, Tony and Marilyn's jeep developed fuel starvation problems. Dale and Tony tried everything to get it going, finally having to put on a replacement fuel pump. Alas, it was still vapourising. Marilyn was pouring water over the fuel pump to try to cool it. We heard Tony say "Not on the manifold!" The other Kiwis in the half ton Dodge were also waiting around to help.

The next time it failed on a switch back the four Kiwis uncoupled the jeep trailer and shoved it uphill for Ray and Jenny McKinney to tow it. We took the jeep under tow, uncoupling for the downhill runs and recoupling for the uphills. Dale had said it would be freezing and to rug up but we reckon it was 35 degrees and all of the vehicles were in trouble.

All the while we knew we weren't last. Nigel was also having trouble making it up the pass. Michael and Bob were waiting for him further up.

The train ride through the pass was fantastic, like a ghost train, just drive on and sit there in the darkness for about 20 minutes.

THE PRETTIEST VALLEY YET

I keep thinking that this is the prettiest everywhere we go, and once again I felt like it was today.

Onwards again down the pass to our campsite, and the jeep once again couldn't get fuel so Tony and Dale decided to pull the carby apart and found a sticky needle and seat and removed a small fleck of plastic. He's had no problem since.

From the time Jim tow started us, we realised we had a charging problem and had to find the source. On arrival at the campsite, we pulled the generator off and found the brushes not sitting correctly on the comutator. We fixed that but it was still erratically charging. We now appear to have a faulty "new" regulator and will have to look for a replacement. A rebuilt generator and a new regulator were installed before we left Oz to ensure that we wouldn't have a problem.

A Civic Reception by the Fiat 500 Club in Garlenda, Italy!

So greatly revered are Lang and Bev Kidby for their epic journey around the world in a Fiat 500, that club members welcomed them back to their small city with a civic reception!

Bewildered motorists were held up as we paraded through the narrow streets of the 700 strong medieval town of Garlenda.

Leading the way, a very accurate 25 member marching band. Lang and Bev followed in their 1945 Chevy Utility with Dale and I hanging off either side running boards. The five Jeeps covered with Australian and New Zealand flags and loaded with other convoyers slowly processed under the banner "Welcome Australian and New Zealand Convoyers" and up to the Fiat 500 museum. Another banner paying tribute to Lang and Bev was hanging outside the museum. The museum was opened, approriate speeches made, and several little 500's joined our vehicles for a photo shoot in front of the museum.

BLOOPER OF THE TRIP

After entreaties from John Hedges (who is known for getting all misty eyed on such emotionally overwhelming occasions such as this) for me to sing Waltzing Matilda, I decided to let it rip with the National Anthemn (after first asking the band leader). After two lines the band burst forth with another marching tune directly behind me, so I abandoned!

Cocktails, spumante, soft drinks, pizza, pastries, chips etc were provided for all by the Fiat 500 Italian Car Club and gave us a chance to socialise with the band and a couple of Carabinieri (soldier police). We all then piled into the local Tennis Club Rooms where they catered for the best quality meal on the trip so far. More brief speeches including one from the Deputy Mayor (a very young female lawyer). An interpretator (Enrica Scotto) was present. They were worrying about catering for such a big crowd, but did an excellent job and everyone enjoyed themselves. I appreciated the opportunity to get to sit by an English speaking local like Wilmy, to ply her with questions about what we are seeing along the countryside, thanks Wilmy.

Our thanks to Ivo Barbacini and Yves (founding members), Domenico Romano, Sandro (President) and Wilmy Scarpa, Silvio Pittoli (deputy Mayor) Fabrizio Amerio (community organizer).

TEMPERATURE IN OUR CAB!

I expect you're wondering how it's going travelling along in our truck?

At times it's quite moderate (congenial) and at others, its extremely heated! Slanging matches are common and we've both learnt to use the big "F". However, I'm comforted by Bev's assuring me that the same sort of thing goes on in their cab. David Mottram added, "It's a wonder anyone comes out of our cab alive at times."

It's quite noisy with the high pitch whine and the low pitch groan of the transfer box; communication, including the UHF, happens when Dale backs off and the gears stop meshing. "I wish I'd tried the transfer from the other spare G I Joe, " says Dale as it jumps out of gear once again when lugging up a slope in third gear.

But the oil dipping engine is brilliant, it's only used 1 litre of oil in 3,500 kms. I think we have some of the most comfortable sprung seats too. They were newly reupholstered for the trip. The driver's however, slopes out the door, so now and again you have to lift yourself up and plop down again a bit to the left!

We have been blessed with beautiful moderate warm and sunny weather since crossing the border into Greece. A sudden, very short lived, heavy shower in the mountains sent jeep occupants diving for side panels!

TUNNELS AND BRIDGES

Most of the 120 kms roadway on the Autostrada travelled between Savona and Tollina (Turin) is elevated, so you either travel on bridges or tunnels. The day before we noticed there was a section which was three tunnels high. It's a great sight looking out at the raised sections dotting the heavily treed hillsides.

Harvesting and planting are well underway at all levels of production. Individuals have good home gardens. White flowering acacias line the Italian countryside at this time.

DAVID AND MAGGIE MOTTRAM

If anyone's having bad luck, it's the Mottrams! They were stung with cash theft twice in Istanbul, suffered a broken spring in Crete, then Maggie lost her $200 watch when it dropped from her lap as she opened the door to pay for the toll on the autostrada.

David was worried about driving around with the broken spring and fell victim to an opportunist hanging around on the docks at Pireaus. He offered to help David with the repair, and got David to pay for a cab to something like a Greek version of the RACQ. He then rang a tow truck, for which David had to pay 50 euro for the call out, and then told David he needed money for his time and telephone calls. He wouldn't accept 20 euro, but he did accept 30 euro!

Maggie's very theatrical. She was describing how they had misplaced a note (containing directions to a repair shop) she thought she'd left on a counter in front of the toll booths. She said she was darting between lanes frantically looking about everywhere, dodging oncoming cars, "like a headless chicken." This is exactly how I feel everytime I try to cross a road, with cars coming at you in every direction; say a quick prayer and try a little darting back and forth dance, and express extreme relief when you get to the other side!

Thanks to the help of the Italian Military Jeep Club back in Florence, the Mottrams were able to get help with their rear spring problem firstly by finding them a workshop. The workshop couldn't locate a replacement spring, so welded a plate over the cracked spring, after pulling it into line. They effectively lost a day having to stay over in Florence, but were treated to a privately conducted night time tour by Luca from 9.30pm to 1.00pm. The club also wanted to treat David and Maggie by paying their night's stay in a hotel whilst the truck was in the workshop, but David had already paid the tab. Our thanks to everyone from the club who did their best to help David and Maggie.

A NEAR MISS!

Honestly, I don't know how we've all managed to stay traffic incident free. Travelling this way in these trucks is dangerous, constantly trying to push our way through to keep up regardless of traffic lights, stop signs and intersections. The nearest incident so far, was hearing the screeching and bang of the impact behind us knowing that the jeeps were following. Ken Bathurst who has his sister Potsy and her son Zeb travelling in his jeep, had to furiously swerve to miss this rear end incident.

LEANING TOWER OF PISA

It's not everyone can say they drove up to the Leaning Tower of Pisa in their WW2 vehicle for a photo shoot. We weren't supposed to be in there so it was to be a quick drive by, grab a photo and "vamoose!"

TURIN

We only had one night in Turin, so Dale and I took Bev's advice and visited the National Cinema Museum, which has an important worldwide collection housed inside the "Mole Antorelliana" the symbol of the city of Turin.

The next day was an easy drive in our five vehicle convoy lead by Ray McKinney to Lake Maggoire in the north of Italy. We had one and a half days here, but no one seemed much in the mood for sightseeing, a swim was a nice change.

With the exception of petrol getting dearer, Italy seems to have it all over Greece. Better roadways, tidier streets, quieter traffic. There's still no bicycle helmets, but definitely is on motor bikes.

VEHICLE UPDATES

Ken Bathurst's jeep turned out to be a new electric fuel pump failure, not only was it not pumping, it was also blocking the supply. He pulled it off and threw it away and had no further problems.

Bob Ward's jeep developed a misfire and stopped. It ended up costing them the day. Replaced everything around the motor except the coil, still to no avail. Ended up towing it in. Turned out to be a condenser.

Michael O'Sullivan's Blitz had developed a short, so it flattened the batteries all the time to a point where it just stopped. It turned out to be a bad connection.

Nigel Ward's Blitz voltage regulator was flattening the battery. After cleaning the regulator points it appeared to be okay.

John Hedges hired an auto electrician to replace the distributor caps and faulty leads on the Ford utility. It seems to be running well.

We mentioned that our rear RH hub seal was leaking. Dale removed the hub, cleaned up the seal area with Nigel's emery tape, cleaned the seal and reassembled it. It took three hours. He reckoned he couldn't have done without the large outdoor umbrella brought from home. It didn't look as though it had been touched for awhile. It must've been the LH seal he did at home!

Ciao Dall 'Italia!

Oh! Oh! It could've been so good!

We were greeted by Andrea Gatti, President of the local Italian Military Vehicle Club and Herman Pfaulter, a German born US citizen with whom Andrea caught a ride with, when we left the boat at Ancona, Italy. Herman drives a US Navy Yankee Joe and is coming with us on the trip all the way to Normandy.

They were the perfect pair to lead the convoy to the next camping ground but for some reason they did not. So away shot our fragmented groups in every direction once again arriving at the camp site which hadn't opened for the season, so a decision was made to travel a further 100 km on to Urbino. We arrived late to a remote pine forested hillside campsite with no running water or toilets and everyone did their block, all deciding to make the most of yet another night on bread and canned foods.

I felt extremely disappointed to have missed the company of Andrea with whom I had set up the Italian liason after his reading my "Anzac Convoy" article in the British Motor Vehicle Trust magazine called "Windscreen." With his local knowledge this part of the leg would be so enjoyable.

He was staying with Herman, and Lang didn't know where they were to enable me to give him a call. I planned to drive him at least part of the way in Yankee Joe the following day, so he could give me the run down of the area we were passing through. It's all very well to go on scenic mountain runs but it's costly in a 65 year old truck not knowing what you're looking at and it's only pretty.

We could see an interesting medieval city across on the opposite hilltop from the camp ground, and headed towards it to find some Saturday night "action." A new outdoor commemorative sculpture honouring Raphael was in progress and the military General was also attending the exhibition of some of Raphael's work. An impromptu performance by one of their leading sopranos in the icecream parlour was especially enjoyable.

HAVING DINNER IN THIS SETTING WAS OUR SECOND MOST ENJOYABLE CONVOY EXPERIENCE!

As soon as we found this wonderful place we radioed back to camp about it. No one had mentioned that this was one of the prettiest and relatively unknown of all of Italy's historical cities - no tourists!

We'd all over reacted and there was proper facilities at the camping park further down the hill.

We met up with Andrea when we got together in San Piero the next evening. Last year he had arranged the "Column of Victory" convoy for 140 military vehicles which followed the path taken by the US liberation forces in WW2. He just shook his head at our convoy!

Groups of us wandering into Scaperia were rounded up by members of the Italian Military Vehicle Club for a photo shoot downtown in a narrow street. Unfortunately it was Sunday afternoon siesta time, so there were very few people around.

Seven well decked out jeeps met us and escorted us to the camping ground where we enjoyed members hospitality over a beer provided most generously by Philipo.

We presented them with an Australian Flag which was generously given to us by our Federal Member of Parliament, Bernie Ripoll, and agreed to meet up again at Normandy!

FLORENCE AND PISA

A group of us caught the train into Florence for a look around in the morning. We then followed Nigel and Lisa, Bob and Anne for the 120 km picturesque journey through to Pisa.

Stowaways At Patra Port!

Something none of us was prepared for was the stowaways. We were approached in the street and at the post box by Iraqi and Afghani men.

Their plan is to get into the docks any which way and hide under the trailers whilst waiting their opportunity to find a hiding place to get onto the boat.

David and Maggie Mottram whose Chevy troopy is open at the back, had two of them jump in as they were approaching the docks. Passersby allerted them to the first one whom they told "to get out of there!" David noticed the second one leap at the back. He slammed on the brakes causing the poor fellow to slam into his tailgate.

Another seized the opportunity to board Lang and Bev Kidby's Chevy utility in the loading area. Lang was stopped and searched by the army who pulled the guy out. He was let run away.

Everyone then had to do their own thorough search of their own trucks. The guard's search includes running a heat sensor over bedding and torches under the chassis, even checking under the bonnet. Five men were pulled out of a pantec and sent on their way.



LEAVING GREECE - RUINED!

Our last night in Greece was in a beautiful park on the water's edge at Rion, near Patra. Before we left we visited the ruins of the Rion Fortress built in 1499 to protect the western sea passage. A beautiful new 5 year old suspension bridge now spans the passage, but all the ferries still run. It's called "The Bridge."

Once again we had a dreadful time trying to find the correct ferry gate and the right boat, trucks scattered everywhere.

This time we were on the Hellenic Spirit on the "camping deck" for the first time and could sleep in the back of our vehicles with toilets and showers provided. The ship was relatively empty so it was very comfortable setting up our camp facilities. People upgrading to cabins were charged 34 euro each (steep) those who had to do it rough at least this time could get into their jeeps to get a change of clothes and shower by using our security card. This ship was the most luxurious yet, with its bars and disco!

The Greeks are a friendly enough people. It's the same as in Oz, people in service roles don't seem to want to be bothered. Add to that the language problem and you get no where.

There is always a military presence of some sort in Greece. You'll see them convoying or patrolling along the roads or from lookout towers, always happy to acknowledge you. Photos however are "forbidden."

The style of homes varied a bit in Greece and Turkey, the Turks building a bigger second storey than the first. Greece is noticeably scruffy, dirty and unkempt. It's a bit to do with the awakening from a hard winter with everything needing a good mow, cutting back and sprucing up. Although you'll notice these cleanups underway, what will be more obvious is the number of commercial establishments in particular left abandoned. They seem to build a new set of premises leaving the old one a crumbling eyesore next door.

Many private dwellings are three tiered, the family finishing one level or the other to live in, whilst the rest of the home looks like a derelict building site with rio spikes sticking up. There are thousands of unfinished projects dotted through the vast housing estates. We're told that tax isn't paid on a dwelling until completion and there is no such thing as a housing loan, so you build as you can afford to.

In some places along the coasts there seems to be thousands of empty apartments. Probably condamindiums for seasonal occupancies. Whilst passing along you'll come across cities of look-a-like multi-tiered dwellings. With no industry obvious one can't help but wonder where all of these people find work.

Rubbish removal seems to be something they are hopeless at! Piles of it lying around. An attempt is being made to recycle, with blue, green, yellow and galvanized iron skips being dumped along the roadways always over flowing.

The advantage of travelling early in the season is that you can get into parks. Cheerful bulbs are in full bloom bursting their way through the scruffy winter mantle. The world econonic downturn is obvious with parks delaying their openings up to a month. We often appear to be the only occupants.

Like the Turks, the Greeks are generous, they will give you a little extra, like a free carafe of wine, loaf of bread, box of tissues, biscuit, mandarin or "shot of racki"!

"One pleasant observation was how refreshing it was to see the day to day operations of life and traffic working in perfect harmony without a trace of the dreaded "workplace health and safety," unlike our own over regulated bureautic crap. Examples are hubbie and wife and two children on a motorbike with no helmets, builders scaffolding made of 6" nails and wood, workmen with no boots, hats, goggles earmuffs etc. Live wires coming out of posts with a bit of sticky tape around them, open holes in the footpath with no fencing, spray painting with no masks; but somehow it all goes along smoothly and everything gets done, " says Dale!

It's The Wrong Way Without Lang Kidby!

14th May 2009

Well, well, well, the trucks have started to fall to bits! John and Fiona Hedges in the 1941 Ford Heritage listed utility developed distributor problems which Dale thinks is a real concern. They still haven't found the problem. They had to be towed on and off the Crete ferry.

Ferry loading is done with clockwise precision, so this caused a frenzied arm waving, yelling, shouting, radios going, communication panic from the deckhands as they tried to turn around on the deck.

Worse still, David and Maggie Mottram in their Chevrolet Mapleleaf have broken a rear main leaf spring, which isn't surprising considering the potholes! Although still drivable whilst crabbing to the left, he decided to remain behind to try and replace it in Athens . It's sad to leave them behind, but Dale would've continued onto France with it where help and spares will be available.

Other truck problems include Mike and Karen O'Sullivan with their Chevrolet Blitz blowing an oil line over the exhaust which ignited. They were able to spurt a fire extinguisher through the hatch in the bonnet of the cab and instantly put it out. Karen noticed the fire, because she had been pouring water over the bonnet to keep it cool while travelling up a 20 km winding mountain path over the mountains on route to Sfakia. They had stayed behind to help Nigel and Lisa file the leading edge off the brake linings of their Chevrolet Blitz 2X4. Brakes were grabbing all over the place, linings too long so borrowed an angle grinder and chamfered them off.

LEAVING PIREAUS PORT ATHENS FOR PATRA FOR FERRY BOARDING FOR ANCONA, ITALY

This morning, fearing yet another frustrating drive trying to find our way from Pireaus Port at Athens, around Athens to Patra via Korinthos, Lang was asked if we could follow him. Lang said, "Don't follow me, I'll see you in Patra." So we fragmented and headed off and hours later, after making 5 wrong turns, driving through all stop signs, and stop lights, doing 3 point turns amongst the traffic etc, we kept ending up back at one of the many wharves. Eventually, we were on the right road! It's moments like these, that one or the other of the group "loses it!"

Quote of the day goes to New Zealander, Ray McKinney who after a stop for a photo call remarked to his wife Jenny, "Shall we move off? We can be the first to be lost this time!"

ITS A LONG WAY WITH LANG KIDBY

"IT'S A LONG WAY WITH LANG KIDBY" to music "It's a Long Way to Tipperary," by Karen Bracken. Lyrics written by Karen Bracken and Dale Barnard.

It's a long way with Lang Kidby, it's a long way to go,
It's a long way with Lang Kidby, so take your CB radio;
Goodbye, dear old Aussie, farewell Kiwi land,
It's a long, long way with Lang Kidby, but ain't it just grand!

Pack up your Navman in your old tin truck, and Go, Go, Go,
Get out your maps and turn your CB on to UHF four 0;
Directions will be far and few, you won't see Lang for dust,
So, pack up your Navman in your old tin truck, for Normandy or bust!

Elizabeth of Rethymno!

I'll tell you what, it's a good way to wear out a truck travelling over those narrow ill-defined city streets. It's impossible to avoid road repairs and manholes and both of us have caught the RH rears on the gutter more than once. Things are shaking loose, like the RH door catch came apart, the door swinging out; and the LH window winder coming off. Tail lights come loose. The worst has been the RH rear hub seal which we can do nothing about whilst on the road, just keep checking the diff oil which is leaking out through the hub seal, "I should've left the old seal alone," said Dale.

Our stay at Elizabeth Camping was a "lost opportunity." Lang wasn't to know that the owner, an American retiree called Elizabeth, a long term resident of the island, had an intricate knowledge of the invasion of Crete in WW2. She had books and maps and told us about the recent naming of Campbell Street after NZ CO Campbell. She felt that local enthusiasts would be disappointed about not meeting up with us and reckoned they would love to buy our trucks! Elizabeth reckoned the farmers would love the trucks! She wanted us to visit a private New Zealand WW2 museum, but we couldn't find it!

She insisted we take a book with us which was left by the occupants of another convoy member who was "lost" and hoped that her camping ground was the park for the night.

Later in the day, when we caught up with the convoy again at Creta Camping at Gouves, the story of the book unfolded. The McKinneys and Angela in the 1/2 ton tin top Dodge, had called by and fell under Elizabeth's spell the same as we had (accidentally leaving the book behind). They told Lang about Elizabeth, but Lang "wasn't interested!"

Another Blogsite for you to watch is: hedgesnormandy.blogspot.com - unfortunately, without a laptop I am a bit handicapped, but these other blogsites are good reading.

Magic Sunset Dinner on Rethymno Beach!

The need for another trip to the emergency centre for me yesterday, meant we had to leave the convoy for two days once again. Then the truck was going nowhere because Dale left the fridge on and drained the batteries once again, so we took the opportunity to catch up on a bit of washing, log on, maintenance, while the 2 amp charger supplied by the caravan park slowly charged them up!

We booked into the caravan park called "Elizabeth" after its American owner. It was a run down park, but did we find help and friendliness like we'd never seen before.

One of those magic dinners for two was served at our request on the beach, alone with just the sun going down ( 8.35 pm) over the Old Harbour Town of Rethymno!

I don't know about you, but I'm starting to feel "hoodwinked" about this trip and it's starting to feel like "the most expensive way to drive through Europe". No attempt has been made at all to get in touch with locals, RSL bodies, military, truck or car clubs, to let them know we are coming and be able to offer their hospitality to us.

Lang doesn't believe in convoys, which would be another way of attracting attention to us. So I don't blame you if you think this blogspot thing is boring.

Today I had a personal lesson about how to "convoy" from Lang. I was driving behind him and kept pulling the speed back to hopefully let the others catch up. He would pull over, and every time I would catch him, he'd take off again. Upon reaching the cemetry (destination), he came over and asked "Are you having trouble with your truck," "Is the truck going alright?" "Yes, why?" I replied. "Couldn't you keep up?" When I explained the reason why, I got the lecture like others before me both individually and collectively have, about how a convoy works. I explained that there is no point in tearing ahead not giving the others a chance and why not take advantage of a photo shoot now and again to give them a chance. Only four of us had made it!

Two points arise, sometimes we know little about our destination, and any of the following; no map, no direction, no name and address. No one checks if everyone is ready, or can get out of the park, or is broken down. Lang just takes off, leaving the convoy to its mercy!!

Dale's VE Birthday in Chania, Crete

Those of us who chose to sleep in the airline seats on the ferry put in a hard night trying to sleep on the floor without pillows or sleeping bags etc. Those who took cabins said that they were so hot and stuffy sleeping was difficult. Lang had told us that we could upgrade to cabins on the boat, but when Mike O'Sullivan tried he got a typically icy reception; turned his video camera, and when told to turn it off, explained that he was doing a travel documentary on how friendly the hospitality was on the boat. She asked for a moment and returned to him with a totally changed attitude!

After disembarking, our orders where to convoy to a vantage point some 15 kms above Heraklion (wife of Zeuss) for a military briefing by Lang. I have to mention this, because it was our worst attempt at convoying yet. Four vehicles made it up with Lang, the rest turning up nearly two hours later!

On the move again travelling from Heraklion to Chania on Crete. This time it was the Navman which gave us a bum steer. We'd all bought the Chinese Cheapie off Ebay and you were lucky if you were supplied with the maps you needed. It seems to have a different way of working. It suggests letters for you to choose from when entering your place names, (you don't get the whole alphabet). We can't hear it over the engine noise. It finds the destination and waits for you to move before starting up.

Many of us went to dinner at the famous Old Harbour in Chamia for a slap up seafood platter and a Happy Birthday song from an accordian player (which we had to pay for.)

SUNDAY 10TH MAY 2009

On the road again first to visit the WW2 German Cemetry above the original Meleme airfield. Lang has a passion for the history of the WW2 German invasion of Crete and under an olive tree he explained to us the strategies, counter strategies, command blunders, capabilities of the soldiers etc. in great detail. He had reproduction German aerial invasion maps pointing out the positions of the troops, attacking and retreating paths.

It's an attention seeking way of travelling. A motorcyclist came up alongside shouting "ossie, ossie, ossie, oi! oi!oi!". Another delighted admirer asked if we were the Australian Occupying Forces!

Athina!

Yesterday we were once again faced with navigational chaos on the 350km journey from Velos to Athens. It was our longest and toughest test yet trying to navigate our way around Athens and out to the camp site doing battle with the road signs and nose to tail traffic congestion.

We got separated from our first pairing up and travelled 50 kms the wrong way up the
E75 motorway.

After regrouping, we had no trouble driving through the city mayhem. We were an hour behind, all of us in the group having mechanical problems. The Ken Bathurst jeep with Postsy and Zeb on board, was surging, the Sam and Lorraine Cutegar studebaker had a massive fuel blockage in the filter, and then our starter motor collapsed.

Everyone else took a wrong turn, even Lang! We were the only sucessful team! Nigel Ward had had our spare starter repaired and carried it with him as part of his spares, but it was sluggish. Jim Sewell with the Blitz Chevrolet radiovan from Perth was also carrying one which Dale successfully installed.

Full marks again to John Neild on the Harley Davidson. I thought it was difficult riding the clutch for an hour but John said it "was really difficult" keeping the bike upright with the foot clutch.

BOARDING THE ATHENS TO CRETE FERRY

The next day, after a fabulous morning tramping around the Parthenon, Temple of Athena, Temple of Olympian Zeus, the 1896 Modern Olympic Stadium and Hadrian's Gate, we convoyed with the bike and the Cutejars to the Piraeus Port to board the ferry for our overnight journey to Crete.

These ferries are absolute luxury. Two elevators take you upstairs to either 4 berth cabins, or airline seats with TV, games rooms, Internet, lounges, shops, discos, bars and dining rooms. Fantastic, and travels along about 40 kph. Dale saw two dog trailers (truck and dog) reversing up the ramps into the boat with no problem. He would not have thought it possible. Semi-trailers backing in like a string of sausages, not even one semi had to correct. Amazing to watch. A semi could do a U turn once inside the boat.

Potsy's 60th Birthday!

It was only a short run through from Litochiro at the foot of Mount Olympus to the camping site at Velos, so I had my second turn driving.

Most of the way was via the E75 Motorway so was straight going. Most often there is a good size shoulder which we travell along in to allow overtaking. However they all seem to be expert at overtaking us even in narrow conditions. Takes the pressure off us. (The roadside both in Greece and Turkey is kept tidy and free of rubbish, with gardeners more obvious on the outskirts of Istanbul.)

The tolls are outragiously priced at 5.80 e, 2.50 e, and 7.50 e for "4th" grade roads.

Since we left Istanbul we noticed that few fuel stations take Visa. Fuel in Turkey was about $3 yt about $3 AU but in Greece it averages about .90 euro approximately AU$2 (which means it's much cheaper). With us filling up 2 or 3 times a day it's too heavy a drain on the cash so we now ask and if they don't accept Visa we put $20-30 in and drive on. One would take it after checking out passport.

When convoying with Lang we pulled into one such fuelstop. The owner couldn't believe his luck - he had a roll of cash the size of two fists from which he was pulling off change.

Unfortunately each time we would fill up the fuel would pour out of the breather when it got to overfull . We would have to look and yell out as it was going on the ground. There is full service still in all servos. Now Dale has stopped it by plugging off the breather and venting the cap.

DIFFERENCES BETWEEN TURKEY AND GREECE

Once you leave Turkey behind you realize how you miss the good things. Everything you purchase becomes twice as dear, except petrol. You still get the squat style toilets but you get a rude shock when it hits you that ALL toilet paper must be put in a separate container next to the toilet. It seems no one was prepared for this and it is a hard habit to break! Toilet and shower facilities vary, sometimes and toilets are very ordinary.

Bottles of water in Turkey were only 50 c per 500 ml and got cheaper as you bought larger amounts. Both in Turkey and Greece we noticed people stopping to refill at the natural springs you find all along the roadways.

Navigating your way around Turkey is much simpler than in Greece mainly due to its closer resemblance to the English language, but also to excellent signage. In Greece the names only closely resemble the English version and both the Greek and English version are displayed, but when the town names are at least 10 characters long or more and are in the Greek alphabet its just about impossible.

I had no problem squeezing my way through the busy streets of Velos and out along the seaway to Sikia campground, which was the nicest we have stayed at yet. It was even warm enough for us to take a swim!

Geia sou From Thassos Island, Greece!

We've moved on from Istanbul now and crossed the border into Greece. The crossing went smoothly except for Hans Spranger unknowlingly dropping his passport at the first of five checkpoints. Luckily his brother Jan found it in a puddle and we were on our way again in the pouring rain.

Yes, its been pouring with rain about one day on and one day off and raining unfortunately on scheduled driving days. John Neild being the worst off on his Harley Davidson and resulting in the jeeps and others finding a motel for the night.

Finding our way out of Istanbul was a nightmare for everyone (except Lang). Unfortunately our UHF wasn't transmitting but we could hear the nasally Aussie accents making comments like "I saw Sam Cutejar going past at great rate of knots," and "We're on a huge round-a-bout and everyone's scattered in different directions," throughout the 350 kms journey.

It's amazing we didn't catch up with them but kept in radio contact all day.

We took a coastal route and found ourselves cautioned over and surrounded by an armed military patrol. They didn't know what to do with us, so I suggested they check our passports which they did, and then posed for a photo shoot. The Cutejars were also pulled over by another patrol - called Jandarmes.

Somehow we arrived at the scheduled campsite at 9.00 pm when all our lights failed. Within minutes the UHF crackled into life and instantly the Ward mob pulled up behind us. The ferryman came to investigate and recognised us as the "Normandy Convoy" and escorted the seven vehicle convoy 5 kms up the road to the "Hotel Kum" with us in the middle of the pack with no lights, because the other camping ground didn't open until mid-May! We'd helped a Kiwi couple out by picking up their friends and baggage at Istanbul airport. We got separated on our way out and didn't see them again until midnight when they turned up to collect their bags to stay in the Hotel Kum at Gallipolli.

The next day, in fabulous sunshine we explored all around Gallipolli peninsular which is largely a one way circuit allowing better access for small groups rather than for a convoy, with parking off a problem.

We carried with us decals depicting the route to be travelled and applied them to the truck whilst camping at Gallipolli, which attracted huge interest with photo shoots and questions.

All vehicles assembled at Anzac Cove the next morning for a photo shoot before leaving for the Greek border. Scaffolding and seating was being dismantled from the Anzac Dawn Service, so we couldn't pose directly in front of the memorial.

Once again most of us had the same difficulty finding our way to the campsite at Alexandroupolis (except Lang) , many members forced to retreat to motels for the night due to bucketing rain.

The next day we were faced with another day of navigational chaos, however, Lang decided to escort us all via the motorway this way avoiding the mess we had getting out of Istanbul and into Androupolis.

The illness I had suffered from our arrival meant that we had to break from the group to seek out the emergency centre in Kavala, afterwards taking a different ferry ride for the one and a half hour journey to Thassos Island to join the others.

No major breakdowns apart from the McKinney NZ Dodge 1/2 ton almost losing a wheel coming loose, Lisa's jeep having to be pushed off the Istanbul ferry, Ken Bathurst having to replace a distributor, our headlight fuse holder melting, and due to the pouring rain several of us had clutch thrust bearings dry out which we fixed with the long spout WD40 - quick fix.

Unfortunately we also had to be pushed off the ferry due to the fridge flattening the battery
while at the hospital for four hours.

Today we hired a noddy bike and lapped this beautiful Greek Island called Thassos in style, reaching 70 kph at 8000 revs downhill, tailwind. Scarry stuff!